Amazing - I and my late wife did almost exactly the same trip a few years ago.  We took the train - another amazing experience - from Dar Es Salaam to the Selous - stayed at a camp at the confluence of the Refuji river and another river - I think it was almost certainly the same camp - and then flew to Stonetown for a couple of days before staying in a small cottage on the south east coast of Zanzibar.

It was the best 2 week holiday of our lives and I am so glad we did it before my wife died because it was the happiest and the most amazing time of our lives.

We were also disturbed by elephants at dinner and by hippos at night.  The density of animals was amazing as it was the dry season and they had all come to the river for water.

Te camp had a high tree house which had a good view and some breeze to help with the heat.  I was lying on a mattress there when I saw a snake hanging down from the roof overhead....

Most dangerous was the fishing on the river.  We caught loads of ugly looking dog fish etc. and our guides insisted on us carrying on until nightfall.  They then went back at full speed towards the camp.  One collision with a Hippo would have had us all in the water and I suspect a life expectancy of about 2 minutes because of all the crocs around.

Stonetown was amazing as there were elections in progress and the local majority Muslims were at odds with the nationally dominant Christian party. Riots ensued and one taxi we got was sheltering a demonstrator who had had his arm broken by police truncheons.

The South east coast was very undeveloped and magical - mostly dirt track - and food was whatever was caught on the day.  Locals vied to cook a dinner for us and we had some interesting meals!

Index of Frank's Diaries