Overwhelming, stupendous diary, CH. I read it breathlessly yesterday evening, and have again now.

It tickled a memory too, albeit not as gruelling as yours. It took some searching to realise it was the feeling of being 1600 meters underground, boots in 20 cm of water, trying to measure the orientation of a fault in darkness except for the light on my helmet, perspiration dripping down my face and the sound of drills blasting through my earplugs... Mining easily ranks up as the second circle of hell, if you'd ask me. Receiving that first breath of fresh air when racing up the mine shaft was a godsend.